The show may have been “under the sea,” but the latest Pierre Cardin collection was more of an experiment in time travel.
The collection started strong out of the gate with a very glam gold and blue coat that felt fresh and could work in a fun, fashion-forward wardrobe in 2024. However it was trailed by a mix of looks, some of which felt as if they had been pulled directly from the archive and in need of updating.
The brand is now helmed by Pierre Cardin’s great-nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin. He’s brought on new blood since the house’s founder died in 2020, mostly from its Young Designers Contest that plucked a handful of students with potential from several cities around the globe to its design studio in Paris. One could feel the push and pull of new ideas with the need to use heritage shapes and cues.
Sportswear made out of Neoprene gelled, particularly on men, as did a selection of capes, in bright green and yellow with contrasting piping that could make an argument for eccentric outerwear.
Some standout dresses were there, too, including an apple green column with wrap-around panels fastening down the front, and several metallic looks, such as short shifts in burgundy and blue.
But while the design team looked to the ocean, many of the geometric shapes felt straight from the brand’s Space Age past.
With a new team, Basilicati-Cardin should lean on their best instincts and develop the house’s codes in new ways without taking a deep dive into the past. New fabrics also could sharpen that tack.
Basilicati-Cardin put his environmental activism front and center, taking guests on an immersive experience under the waves in the L’Atelier des Lumières. A film that ran through the show depicted dolphins, whales, sharks and turtles in their natural habitats, as well as some activists in rescue work.
His dedication is admirable — he’s even launched an ecological prize and hosted parties featuring speeches from scientists — but the last look of a dress with fins was a little too literal to be taken seriously. Maybe it will make for fun editorial. The brand plans to launch a more commercial diffusion collection soon.
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