Omakase ideas for the sushi lover in you

Sushi fans, we have some next-level options for you. Also this week, we answer some questions: Why is Cherry Hill going bonkers over a new restaurant, how does Neighborhood Ramen make 100 pounds of ramen noodles, and what to order at Royal Tavern? Read on for dining intel, ice cream news, word of three restaurant weeks, and catch a terrific new Center City lunch option.

— Mike Klein

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What’s hot out there in sushi land? The intimate experience known as omakase, where you sit at a counter for multi-course menus prepared in real time right in front of you. I spent the better part of three months surveying the region’s omakases, dining at 10 of the 11. (Could not crack the reservations this time at Jesse Ito’s vaunted Royal Izakaya, but I have been there in the past.) Above, chef Minoru Ogawa wields a torch at one of his 23-course, “29-bite” extravaganzas in Old City, only one of the omakase options.

“When’s Radin’s gonna open?” was the most-asked question in my inbox. Till last weekend. Russ Cowan’s Cherry Hill Jewish deli has been SRO, even closing early one day because they ran out of rye bread. Read on as Cowan, who recently sold Famous 4th Street in Philly, recaps his storied history and superbly defends his pricing policy.

Neighborhood Ramen’s Jesse Pryor and Lindsay Steigerwald plan to close in June and open a ramen atelier nearby in preparation for their move to Japan. (We old-timers remember ESO Ramen Workshop’s Queen Village space as Django, a landmark Philly BYOB from 2001-08.) Hira Qureshi and videographer Gabe Coffey went behind the scenes to show the noodle-making process.

Royal Tavern in South Philadelphia returned from its pandemic pause several months ago. Critic Craig LaBan finds new chef Nic Macri, a renowned butcher, is leaning deeper into creative vegan options — radish tartare, anyone?

Scoops, literally

Does Joe or Angela Cicala get credit for winning the regional round of the Carpigiani Gelato Challenge? Angela signed up and prepared the gelato (almond, bitter orange, crushed taralli) on Sunday but woke up Monday with the flu. Joe showed up at Rosito Bisani East in King of Prussia, spun the mixture, and assembled it. He calls this variety “one of the top three things” Angela has ever made. They’re bringing it back for dessert at Cicala at the Divine Lorraine. Next up: They go to L.A. on Labor Day weekend for the gelato semifinals; winner heads to Italy for the championship.

Milk Jawn, the hit ice cream shop in South Philly, has a Northern Liberties location in the works.

Gelato Shop, the utilitarian name of gelato chef Gianluigi Dellaccio’s business, has opened at 87 S. Main St. in New Hope. A one time star water-polo player for Italy, Dellaccio founded his U.S. operation in Washington as Dolci Gelati. The shop is in soft-opening mode now, which makes sense as this is gelato.

Restaurant report

Dizengoff’s expansion is complete, with last week’s addition of lunch, now offered 11 a.m.-2 p.m. every day in the colorful dining room and at the bar. The tight, Tel Aviv-ian menu is based on hummus bowls (like the Masabacha, in which chickpeas swim in tehina, olive oil, lemon, and herbs), plus rice platters (such as crispy eggplant with rice pilaf spiced with turmeric and dill, and cucumber, tomato, and cabbage), salads (like the Petrozilia, with parsley, pomegranate, pine nuts, and Merion Park labneh), and sandwiches, plus regular and spiked lemonana. Dinner menu starts at 5 p.m. It’s dine-in only now; start of takeout is still TBD.

Dizengoff, 1625 Sansom St. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. with drinks until 11 p.m. Sunday – Wednesday, and midnight Thursday-Saturday.

Briefly noted

Tova du Plessis of South Philly’s Essen Bakery has gone public with her struggle with narcolepsy. To mark Rare Disease Day, Feb. 29, Essen will sell salted maple pies made from a recipe by Lisa Ludwinski, owner of Sister Pie in Detroit. The pies ($29) contain a creamy caramel filling made from dark amber maple syrup, heavy cream, eggs, brown sugar, and a touch of cornmeal. Proceeds will benefit Wake Up Narcolepsy. Pickups and delivery will be available Feb. 29 and March 1 via Essen’s online ordering page.

The Lucky Well Incubator’s second batch of chefs start Friday: Philly Tapas by Hatim Hamdan (Spanish/Moroccan), Papa Dan’s by Dan Britt (pizza), and Hatch Cover by Elise Black (Jersey Shore-inspired summertime favorites), all joining the Lucky Well’s barbecue. The restaurant, at 990 Spring Garden St., will also move to sit-down service, with reservations via OpenTable. Service will start at 4 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday.

Jacobs, serving Southern comfort food, will fill the building at 7152 Ogontz Ave. in West Oak Lane last occupied by Relish. Chef-owner Tanesha Trippett, who also has the Brotherly Grub food truck, plans an April 5 grand opening.

Miles Table, Mike Lynch’s bruncherie at 1620 South St. and at the Bok Building, has a third location teed up for April: It’s the former Mercer Cafe at 2619 E. Westmoreland St. in Port Richmond. Same format. The restaurant’s namesake, Lynch’s son, Miles, was nearly 5 when it opened and he’s 15 now.

Entree BYOB has wrapped its 10-year run at 1608 South St., as chef/owner Kevin Addis is relocating with a new restaurant in Jim Thorpe, Pa. The next occupant of the space will be La Sera Italiana, a classic Italian from Albert Murraku, who arrived here 10 years ago from Albania, attended Community College and Temple University for hospitality management, and cooked at La Viola in Rittenhouse. He’s looking to open in early to mid-March. His Instagram has menus.

Sack O’ Subs’ Ventnor location will reopen Friday, back after a June 2022 fire. Downbeach reports that original owner Anthony “Fuzzy” Sacco, 93, will come out of retirement to make the first sub.

Wendy’s wants to implement surge pricing on its menu. When you’re hungriest, your Frosty could cost you more.

Quick update on Eataly, coming to King of Prussia Mall in 2025: Corporate has filed for its liquor license, taking the one used by the mall’s now-shuttered Grand Lux Cafe. The Italian food emporium is taking 23,000 square feet previously a Rite Aid and part of Forever 21.

Restaurant weeks

East Passyunk Restaurant Week is on through March 8 with three-course prix fixe lunch and/or dinner menus for $20, $30, $40, and $55. There are two dozen restos on board.

King of Prussia Restaurant Week, a benefit for Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia, runs March 4-15. There’s a nifty tool to find restaurants.

Haddonfield Restaurant Week is March 5-10 with all sorts of price points and deals, including four courses for $55 at the James Beard-semifinalist Gass & Main.

Pop quiz

Camden County is looking for a vendor to set up on Camden’s waterfront. What new amenity may be offered there?

A) chaise longues

B) alcoholic beverages

C) vaping areas

D) a fully catered dog park

Find out if you know the answer.

Ask Mike anything

Do you have any intel on Hiro Ramen? — Sue D.

Looks like it’s closed. A peek at Loopnet, the real estate site, would shoyu that the space at 1102 Chestnut St. is being offered for lease. Hiro had been around since fall 2012. Owner Dan Zhao did not return my messages.

Also in recent closings: the Manayunk location of Franzone’s Pizzeria is down after nine years; the Conshohocken flagship and Bridgeport offshoot remain. A new parlor, Zaboli’s Pizza, is about a month out with New York-style slices and stromboli at Levering and Cresson Streets. Also, Creme Brulee Bistro’s location at Second and South Streets is done.

Have a question about food in Philly? E-mail your questions to me at [email protected] for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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