Courtesy of Vaquera
Vaquera duo Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee took their opening day berth and turned it into a mediation on money, late-stage capitalism and nepo babies. The confident and sometimes confrontational collection was a dose of reality about fashion as a business while hitting a new creative high.
“We, by necessity, have had to become obsessed with money. Just in this industry you need money to survive and New York is expensive. We didn’t start this business to make money. But that’s what we have to do. So I was just like, it’s on our minds all the time. It’s on everyone’s mind,” Taubensee said.
“So why not make clothes out of it?” added DiCaprio, finishing her sentence.
They riffed on the question of cultural — as well as all too real — currency. What does it take to make it as a young designer when celebrity kids can slap their name on some products and call it a fashion line? DiCaprio emphasized they’re from far outside the fashion field, with their home states of Alabama and Indiana. No nepo babies here.
Dollar bill prints were the most literal interpretation, on long scarves, point-collar button downs and hiked up dresses. They also traded in on the classically obvious signifiers of money with oversize faux fur coats, chubby wraps, demure gloves and clutches. The looks were paired with Badgley Mischka-esque crystal buckle pumps (Carrie Bradshaw anyone?) and other dainty footwear.
The mood soon gave way to confrontation with full-frontal cutouts and wisps of netting that took naked dressing to its extreme. Other looks were outrageously pointed shoulders on bright faux fur chubbies, and oversize floral appliqués, while a voiceover questioned whether you can buy art to buy credibility.
They kept a few signature references, such as a babydoll sailor dress, from past seasons, then they one-upped themselves with hoop skirts made out of buoys that floated around models’ bodies. There were also plenty of pieces that will played well with the current “mob wife” mini-trend.
DiCaprio and Taubensee polished up their gritty edges just enough to make a statement. Money can’t buy love, but if it translates into sales all the better.
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