Courtesy of Marc Jacobs
After opting to highlight the ballet flat in his fall 2023 collection, the Mary Jane pump was the shoe of choice in Marc Jacobs‘ latest collection.
Shown in New York on Friday night, Jacobs’ spring 2024 runway presentation marks the brand’s 40th anniversary and served up models walking the catwalk in a doll-like fashion, wearing items of exaggerated proportions.
Indeed, from the large bouffant hair down to the footwear, everything about this collection was far from ordinary. The same could be said for this season’s key shoe: an updated take on the Mary Jane pump.
Seen on most of the 47 models on Friday night, the pump features an inflated-like toe box that curves up; a thick, sculpted heel; and an oversized gold buckle closure at the ankle. The shoe was seen in black leather and satin, gold leather, tan, off white and light pink.
Next, a pair of dress Oxford shoes appeared on the runway. Exaggerated by an elongated toe box, the style was seen in black, white and a jewel-embellished gold model.
What’s more a pair of sky-high platform boots were worn with gowns. The style takes nods from the New York streetwear staple work boot in a beige colorway.
Finally, a pair of reworked combat boots stepped down the runway. The black leather boot features a similar toe box as the Mary Jane pump with an oversized and angular lug sole that extends back past the heel. Plus, the top upper of the boot is cut away from the ankle and folds over top of the foot.
Continuing on the extraordinary theme, the show also featured the large-scale sculpture of American artist Robert Therrien’s 2006 work “No Title (folding table and chairs, beige)” as the backdrop of Jacobs’ long runway.
Jacobs’ “Wonder” titled show notes set the tone this season. “My love for the commonplace is a constant and meaningful lifelong affair,” the designer wrote. “Through the unavoidable lens of time, my glass remains full of wonder and reflection. By examining the memorable and the mundane, we abstract and exaggerate with a disorienting familiarity in our desire to express something naïve and elegant.”
