Nothing quite sums up the fantasy of couture fashion like the recent Maison Margiela Couture Spring/Summer 2024 runway show. The collection was met with critical acclaim, but so too was the unreal porcelain doll-esque make-up on the runway – a reminder of the creative genius that is a collaboration between John Galliano and Pat McGrath.
As per her brand’s show report, McGrath explained “skin is coated in a hyper-shiny glaze, mimicking the smooth, reflective quality of glass and completing the models’ unbelievable metamorphosis.” Immediately, social media was awash with takes on the the complexions, from high praise of the hyper-shiny glass skin to suggestions of how to recreate it – with theories including Kryolan’s Liquid Glass (see beauty pro Kirbie Johnson’s deep dives here) and Freeman’s Renewing Cucumber Peel-Off Gel Mask (via make-up artist and vintage beauty collector Erin Parsons) behind behind the magic. And, in the absence of the ‘mother’ of make-up revealing the exact details behind the look –yet – commenters even accused McGrath of “gatekeeping” her secrets. As if it’s not her right to reveal what she wants, when she wants to.
Regardless, the legendary make-up artist has said that “all will be revealed very soon” – and now bets are on as to whether she has a Pat McGrath Labs launch up her sleeve; one that will allow fans to recreate the ultimate glass skin finish. Here’s hoping…
Meanwhile, her pro tip to create a natural glass-like finish is to prep the skin with her Divine Skin: Rose 001TM The Essence, “then perfect using the Sublime Perfection Foundation”. On the cheeks, “apply and blend the Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm for a flushed doll-like look,” she suggests. To further achieve the couture look, pair with pencil-thin arches in place of bleached-out brows, and “painterly” eye make-up in “jewel tones, pastels or moody charcoals”.