Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli Spring 2024 Couture Collection

Daniel Roseberry has evolved into an unofficial king of couture. In January of last year, the designer’s Spring 2023 spectacle caused much ruckus for its highly-realistic depictions of animal heads (and the Swarovski-covered Doja Cat that was seated in its front row). In July, his Fall 2023 show turned clothing into dramatic, surrealist masterpieces that were modeled by industry titans, including Tanya Dziahileva and Magdalena Frąckowiak. On Monday, Roseberry returned to Paris Couture Week, opening the affair (per usual) with his Spring 2024 runway — and his sights set on Mars.

For this season, the visionary’s mood board was tacked with the studies of Elsa Schiaparelli’s uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli. He was the director of the Brera Observatory in Milan, where he discovered a new series of channels on the surface of Mars and ultimately coined the term “martian,” in 1877. Space has, naturally and informally, permeated the fashion house’s codes since its inception. In 2024, Roseberry pays homage to Schiaparelli’s familial obsession with the solar system, in a line titled “Schiaparalien.”

Per the show notes, the collection is a “study in contradiction,” particularly that between the old and new worlds. Antiquated techniques, like over-embroidered guipure laces, velvet appliqués and hand-cut chenille fringe, are juxtaposted with new-age motifs, such as motherboards and microchips (which compose the entirety of a technological dress, as well as a space-age baby). On display, here, is the tension between “legacy” and “avant-garde,” “earthbound” and “heaven-sent.”

The collection makes nods to Roseberry’s home state of Texas, with bandanas, constructed from hand-made paillettes, and cowboy boots, reaching up to the thigh. Horse-braid dressage knots drive the point home, covering a camel suede bomber jacket and a white denim corset in silk satin. Finishing off the line, Elsa’s signatures — the keyhole, the measuring tape, the body parts — are scattered throughout like hidden treasures.

See Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli Spring 2024 couture collection in the gallery above.