Thinking about what constitutes classicism in fashion had designer Takuya Morikawa considering what that means to him. For Japanese people, classic spells Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons, he said through a translator.
But don’t go looking for any resemblance to these illustrious forebearers in Taakk’s fall collection, beyond a desire to drill down ever further into one’s signature.
In Morikawa’s case, that means pushing further the textile manipulation techniques, to great effect. He said he wanted to give his interpretation of elegance, and the prevalence of tailoring leaned into a dressier direction.
Shirts and blousons zhuzhed up in tone-on-tone ribbon embroidery made from strips of the garment’s fabric. He reprised his signature graduated fabrics, going from wool to lightweight cotton, or using it to morph a blazer into an MA-1 jacket at the sleeves.
Elsewhere, what looked like a thick knit turned out to be fuzzy thread embroidery, giving long cardigans and vests a more defined structure.
Likewise, wavy patterns were created by fusing two layers of fabric together, with heat shrinking one side into patterns that evoked flowing water on the surface, turning slacks and blousons into sophisticated fare.
They rounded out a standout collection at once in step with the times and intensely Taakk.
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