Over the last week, fashion’s biggest headlines covered runways, campaigns, ambassadorships, courtrooms and scandals. Among the most notable, Pitti Uomo 105 has just come to a conclusion in Florence, where over 800 Italian and international designers set up shop to connect with industry insiders from across the globe. Meanwhile, the CFDA revealed the preliminary calendar for the upcoming New York Fashion Week in February, and Moncler Grenoble revealed that it will show its Fall 2024 collection on the slopes of St. Moritz.
Down the line, Pharrell uncovered the full Spring/Summer 2024 campaign for his first collection at Louis Vuitton, and Jamie Dornan was named the latest global brand ambassador for LOEWE. All the while, FKA twigs’ Calvin Klein ad was banned in the UK for allegedly depicting the artist as a “stereotypical sexual object,” and Arc’Teryx won the injunction to temporarily prohibit adidas from using its TERREX signage in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood.
Below, Hypebeast has rounded up the top fashion stories of the week so you can stay up to date on trends in the industry.
Everything That Went Down at Pitti Uomo 105
Andrea Adriani/Gorunway.com/Vogue Runway
Pitti Uomo 105 marked the beginning of men’s fashion month. The massive menswear trade show, stationed in Florence, Italy, housed more than 800 international and Italian designers inside custom booths, while three guest designers — Todd Snyder, Magliano and S.S. Daley — took to the runway for special Fall/Winter 2024 showcases.
Todd Snyder commanded the fair’s global stage on Tuesday evening, with his debut collection as the creative director of Woolrich Black Label alongside his namesake Fall 2024 line. On Wednesday, Luca Magliano returned to the fair, five years following his brand’s launch, with an insurgent menswear line; and on Thursday, British designer S.S. Daley closed out the runway portion of the event with a collection that heralded Florence and the UK’s sartorial legacies (Plus, he revealed that Harry Styles has acquired a minority stake in his business.)
Off the runway, Ferragamo corralled out-of-towners into its Museo Ferragamo, where the brand is presently showing its retrospective Salvatore Ferragamo 1898-1960 exhibition. GUESS JEANS also cut the ribbon on its own Pitti Immagine experience, dubbed THE NEXt 40 YEARS OF DENIM.
As the indsutry heads to Milan for the Italian city’s men’s fashion week, revisit all the happenings from Pitti Uomo 105 here.
CFDA Released the New York Fashion Week FW24 Calendar
The Washington Post/Getty Images
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) on Wednesday revealed the preliminary calendar for the upcoming New York Fashion Week. Taking place from February 9 to 14, the biannual event will see designers debut their Fall/Winter 2024 collections across the American fashion capital.
Helmut Lang will open the affair, with Peter Do’s second collection for the adored New York label. The calendar houses more than 65 names, with returning brands including Willy Chavarria, Eckhaus Latta, Kim Shui, Sandy Liang, Area, Theophilio, Sergio Hudson, LaQuan Smith, Michael Kors, anOnlyChild, LUAR and more.
Notably, Thom Browne, who is the chairman of the CFDA, claims the final spot on the calendar, and Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin will hop over the pond for his first show in America.
See the full calendar here.
Louis Vuitton’s SS24 Campaign Took Pharrell Williams’ Panache to Paris
Louis Vuitton
Ahead of his third runway spectacle for Louis Vuitton next week, Pharrell Williams has shared his full Spring/Summer 2024 menswear campaign for the French fashion house.
Building on his previous promotional outputs starring Rihanna and LeBron James, this latest sartorial imagery sees models lounging against Parisian staircases in leather motocross attire, with signature sunglasses and headgear. The label’s iconographic checkered blazers appear in neutral colorways, and rhinestone-embossed varsity jackets complement the collection’s vivid Speedy Bags and their kaleidoscopic counterparts.
See Louis Vuitton’s full Spring/Summer 2024 campaign here.
Moncler Grenoble Will Show Its Fall/Winter 2024 Collection Slopeside in St. Moritz
Moncler
Moncler is packing for the snow-capped mountains, as the brand announced earlier this week that its Moncler Grenoble label will present its Fall/Winter 2024 collection on the slopes of St. Moritz.
“The experience will embody the duality at the core of Moncler Grenoble: a coming together of high performance and high style,” the brand said in a statement. Notably, Moncler Grenoble opened its first-ever flagship in St. Moritz at the tailend on last year, so the show’s destination is right on brand.
The show will “bring [Moncler Grenonble’s] global community together” in the foreground of St. Moritz’ stunning scenery, through an “outdoor experience befitting the DNA of the brand’s quintessential mountain line.”
Moncler Grenoble will present its Fall/Winter 2024 collection in St. Moritz on February 3, 2024.
Jamie Dornan Is the New Face of LOEWE
Dave Benett/Getty Images
Jamie Dornan has signed on as the latest global brand ambassador for LOEWE. The Northern Irish actor is a longtime fan of the brand, having recently appeared in the Jonathan Anderson-led label’s FW23 campaign alongside Omar Apollo. Now, as an official face for LOEWE, Dornan will represent the brand during public appearances, and he’ll continue to appear in future promotional imagery.
“Welcome to the LOEWE family. Actor Jamie Dornan joins as our new Global Brand Ambassador,” the French brand wrote on Instagram.
Having watched many of Jamie’s films and following his work closely, he was front of mind when we were thinking about a new ambassador for Loewe,” Anderson told Hero Magazine. “I’ve always liked how his performances embody a sense of strength that feels very pure and organic.”
Harry Styles Invests in UK Fashion Label S.S. Daley
Anthony Pham/Getty Images
Just after the final carousel at S.S. Daley’s Fall 2024 show in Florence during Pitti Uomo, the British designer (whose full name is Steven Stokey-Daley) made a headline-worthy announcement: Harry Styles has acquired a minority stake in his company.
“Harry and I have a shared vision for the future of S.S. Daley and we look forward to this new chapter together as we focus on brand longevity and scaling the business into a modern British heritage house,” the designer said in a statement.
Terms of the deal were not shared; however, the investment will aid the designer in building his direct-to-consumer business and support a “sustainable and long-term expansion,” according to reports.
UK Bans FKA twigs’ Calvin Klein Ad for Displaying Her as “Stereotypical Sexual Object”
Calvin Klein
The UK’s Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) has banned FKA twigs’ Calvin Klein advertisement, alleging that the image is “irresponsible” and could be seen as offensive for its objectification of the female form.
The ASA states that the photo, which sees the artist wearing a denim shirt with half of her body exposed, places the viewers’ focus on “the model’s body rather than on the clothing being advertised.” The Authority added that it “presented her as a stereotypical sexual object.” Complaints were also filed against imagery of Kendall Jenner, from the same campaign.
“The images were not vulgar and were of two confident and empowered women who had chosen to identify with the Calvin Klein brand, and the ads contained a progressive and enlightened message,” Calvin Klein said in response to the ban.
Learn more here.
Arc’Teryx Won Injunction to Temporarily Ban adidas From Using TERREX Name in Vancouver Store
Adidas Terrex
Vancouver’s outerwear label Arc’Teryx won a temporary injunction to bar adidas from using the Terrex branding on its Kitsilano, British Columbia, store.
Arc’Teryx’s parent company Amer Sports Canada previously filed a lawsuit against adidas regarding the signage, alleging that the German sportswear brand’s TERREX branding would lead to “consumer confusion.” The store is located only a few doors down from Arc-Teryx’s retail outpost in the neighborhood, and it similarly sells outdoor apparel.
“When one places an image of the Performance Bars and TERREX trademarks beside an image of the ARC’TERYX trademark, the similarity between the two and the potential for confusion is immediately obvious,” stated Justice Nigel Kent in his judgement. Kent granted a temporary injunction, banning adidas from showing the TERREX signage at its West 4th Avenue store until Arc’Teryx’s filing enters trial.
Read more from Kent’s judgement here.
