Anthony Vaccarello returns to the Paris Fashion Week season with the Fall/Winter 2024 Saint Laurent collection. A nod to the house’s distinctive womenswear image defined by the brand’s founding designer, the collection was precise, singular and mostly transparent.
The show was a nod to the original Saint Laurent HQ, most specifically the salons of Avenue Marceau. Guests entered a dark space, featuring a low leather sofas and illuminated drapes that surround the space. A-list house ambassadors like Zoe Kravitz and BLACKPINK’s Rosé alongside Lily Collins, Linda Evangelista, Kate and Lila Moss and more were seated front row in support of Vaccarello. Transparency has been the theme of the collection, leaning to a long-term code at the house of Saint Laurent. In tune with the current “Transparencies” exhibition at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, it comes as no surprise that sheer and see-through dresses and tops are the highlights of the collection. The pieces appear to use the same materials used for tights, maintaining the transparent “Free the Nipple” look the house of Saint Laurent has long been known for.
The collection’s color palette is to be highlighted. Ranging from olive hues to earthy caramels and fainted taupe to rich chocolate brown, vermillion and black, Vaccarello paid homage to Monsieur Saint Laurent as a illustrious colorist, using muted tones emphasized by contrasting sheer and shiny textures. Transparency draws to attention the fragility of the collection. Continuing to embrace paradoxes as a comment to today’s modern woman, the Saint Laurent saw boxy, masculine tailoring co-exist with the unapologetic sexiness of womankind. From hulking coats to elegantly tailored headwraps, Vaccarello honors traditional house codes with a contemporary twist.
Take a look at the collection above.
