The 2023 Met Gala — and the exhibition devoted to Karl Lagerfeld’s unparalleled fashion career — represented a huge moment for the brand, and it continues.
For his fall collection, Karl Lagerfeld design director Hun Kim interpreted outfits worn by its VIP guests that night into more approachable versions. So the gargantuan puff sleeves on Michelle Yeoh’s gown were deflated for a festive white shirt, while Bryan Tyree Henry’s dramatic, tiered lace cape became a fetching, long evening skirt.
In addition, the bustier-style tuxedo Lou Doillon wore to the opening of the Karl Lagerfeld Hotel in Macau last year is also up for grabs, here interpreted as a jumpsuit.
The festive portion of the collection, mostly black and white, hewed closely to Lagerfeld’s graphic style. Consider black dress pants with a folded-over, collar-like satin waistband, or a long, Lurex-flecked knit dress etched with Art Deco patterns, winking to a design period the late German designer treasured.
“Back to Paris,” Kim said, infusing the entire collection with the elevated chic of denizens in Lagerfeld’s adopted city, seen in waist-cinched coats and jackets in real or eco leather, a cropped and quilted bomber jacket and a fit-and-flare mock-neck dress in a neutral brown to dress up or down.
Citing a hunger for more dressed-up clothes in the post-pandemic era, Kim scattered dark crystals on men’s shirts, glazed sweaters with sharply angled cables and carved KL logo jacquard fabrics into terrific trousers.
And what of Jared Leto’s crazy, lifelike catsuit that gala night, an homage to Lagerfeld’s beloved pet Birman Choupette? Cue up a fuzzy, hooded blouson that also reverses to black, or an evening bag with a crouching feline as a handle.
For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.
