All eyes were on Adrian Appiolaza as the Argentinian designer made his debut at Moschino for Fall 2024.
Any new creative director automatically finds themselves in the fashion week spotlight, especially when they show their first collection for an established house. Appiolaza’s had an added weight to it, given his appointment came months after the unexpected passing of Davide Renne, who was originally named Jeremy Scott’s successor, only a few days into the job. So, how does one balance not only these very specific, sad circumstances, but also taking over a well-known fashion brand with only a little over a month to prepare for your first runway?
For Appiolaza, it meant leaning into the house codes. The Fall 2024 collection — with its bag of baguettes, question mark motifs, polka-dotted suiting and smiley faces — is unquestionably Moschino in its playfulness. But Appiolaza studied the work of Franco Moschino, specifically, to get at something deeper.
“My first reaction was: volume,” the Argentinian designer said in an interview with Vogue‘s Luke Leitch. “One of Franco’s great strengths was his creation of silhouettes. Then I started identifying archetypes, and recurring obsessions, and I started thinking that Franco’s fantasy universe was not only about the creation of clothes — it was about the creation of characters. What I’ve already learned from him is that clothing is meant to be played with. There is an irony that runs through the work, and a sense of joy and that’s also something I want to translate into this new chapter.”
Unlike Scott’s louder approach to Moschino’s camp, Appiolaza’s take on it is channeled with more of an inside voice. Individually, the collection is filled with pieces for the everyday, fitting to wear while running errands but still fun enough to spark conversation. The styling really captures the quirk: cargo skirts over maxis with a train; sheer dresses atop ultra-long pearl necklaces; high-low ruffled skirts paired with formal straight-leg trousers.
As for the show-stealing moment at the end of it all? Appiolaza brought out his dog while giving his end-of-show bow. How can you not love that?
Below, see all the looks from Moschino Fall 2024.
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Moschino Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
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