Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Stéphane Rolland and his business partner Pierre Martinez widened the scope of couture. Instead of only showing his own exclusive pieces at the Salle Pleyel theatre, Rolland first invited on to the catwalk fashion conceived by 20 students from Paris’ elite schools — ESMOD and Institut Français de la Mode — to be viewed by 1,600 guests. The students then themselves took a bow.
For Rolland and Martinez, couture is about savoir-faire, heritage and transmission. “We did master classes, trained them and helped them to achieve their work the best they could,” Rolland said.
“We have to share,” Martinez added.
“It’s a human adventure,” Rolland continued.
While creating his spring 2024 couture collection, he had in mind a new world, a new chapter and an atmosphere of serenity. Rolland’s vision was a mix of orient and Occident.
He set the scene with images of sunrise and sand on a big screen. “It’s the desert to show infinity and peace,” Rolland said. “I wanted to bring this atmosphere in haute couture with the creation of new volumes.”
Curvaceous silhouettes were reminiscent of dunes. “There is also this notion of sensuality and comfort, lightness,” Rolland said.
This sumptuous collection included a long, hooded tunic in rosewood silk gazar, a Tuareg blue organza thobe embroidered with gold and a long white wool gazar dress embroidered with silver mosaics.
Rolland channeled hues from the start of the day in the desert, with pinks, through until the night, with almost black, navy blue and a touch of gray.
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