Jewel-toned eveningwear, oodles of old-world glamour and a distinctive hand are what Alexis Mabille’s customers want. He delivered, with an expanded capsule lineup of easy-to-wear derivations of his couture creations presented in July.
Designed to be timeless, accompanying the wearer “like a crush that carries on for 10 years,” the designer explained at an appointment in his intimate Galerie Vivienne showroom, his ready-to-wear creations are intended to take their wearer wherever she wants in life — from the red carpet to the dance floor, with stilettos or Docs — she is the main attraction, not the dress, Mabille explained.
Smoking jacket and bow details in combinations of satin and crêpe are among Mabille’s signatures, and they were plentiful. A draped gown in emerald green satin was belted at the waist and given open sides, while a simple black sheath had giant bows perched on its shoulders. Bolero jackets with gilded embroideries were among the separates, while floral elements were integrated through prints and lace.
Mabille subverted shirt and jacket details in playful ways, as on a regal purple gown where a buttoned collar was pulled backwards over the head, accentuating the bust, its “front” draped across the shoulders, which Mabille highlighted in many of his designs this season.
Voluminous satin shirtdresses with Watteau-pleated backs would be just the ticket as an opera jacket but double up for a more casual look, worn open with jeans for example, the designer said.
Displayed as long and short versions, they highlighted one of the concepts Mabille has been expanding on in recent seasons — each of the creations could be adapted to offer retailers something a little bit different, heightening the exclusivity factor for his globetrotting clientele.
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