The 16 best emerging fashion designers on earth

Designer: Luca Magliano

Founded: 2017

The Bolognese label bringing a vibrant new perspective on cutting-edge fashion to the traditional world of Italian style.

Do you have an ideal customer in mind when you design?

People who have a ritual and a mysterious approach to life.

What are your main inspirations for the collection?

The Italian provincia: those peripheral areas that are not cities yet not countrysides, the place of work, where a struggling natural landscape hosts a cement workshop, but also where folk culture meets underground culture, where there is not even a pinch of bourgeois vulgarity.

What was the first piece of clothing you ever designed?

The first memory of design that I have is a mermaid tail made out of crepe paper that I made with my older sister. I wanted to be a mermaid so badly, and she took care of that fantasy. I owe her a lot.

If you could make only one item of clothing from your collection, what would it be?

A vest with millions of pockets to have everything with you all the time. A piece of clothing that is better than a home.

If you could have designed the wardrobe for any film ever made, what would it be?

Risate di Gioia [The Passionate Thief] by Mario Monicelli from 1960. There’s a scene where Totò and Anna Magnani get ready for New Year’s Eve as seen through the genius of Monicelli.

If you could dress any person, alive or dead, who would it be?

I’d pick at least two: Virginia Woolf and Sandro Penna, one of the greatest Italian poets, who spoke of gay love.


Commission

UNITED STATES

From left: Jason Rider, Stick, Fuma, Dylan Cao, Jin Kay. On Jason Rider: Shirt and pants by Commission. On Stick: Shirt and pants by Commission. On Fuma: Jacket and shorts by Commission. On Dylan Cao: Shirt and shorts by Commission. On Jin Kay: Shirt and pants by Commission. All other clothing, sneakers, and accessories, subjects’ own.Photograph by Justin Leveritt. Hair, Nero using Oribe; Makeup, Sena Murahashi using Shiseido.

Designers: Jin Kay and Dylan Cao Founded: 2018

The über-stylish New York duo blending ’80s Asian style with downtown flair to create a new vision for American sportswear.

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