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Marni, Peter Do, Casablanca and Duran Lantink are among those making their Paris Fashion Week debuts this season, according to the official Spring/Summer 2024 schedule revealed on Monday by the French industry body Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Carven, Maison Margiela and Mugler will return alongside established names, including Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and Balmain.
The SS24 PFW edition will run from 25 September to 3 October, comprising 108 shows and presentations (67 shows and 41 presentations), up from 106 last September. Other newcomers joining the schedule include Kiko Kostadinov and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, while first-time presentations will be hosted by Caroline Hu, Christopher Esber, Paloma Wool and Quira, whose founder Veronica Leoni was an LVMH prize finalist this year.
Phoebe Philo’s highly anticipated debut won’t be part of the Paris Fashion Week official schedule. Philo is expected to reveal her new collection and begin selling it online in September.
Marni’s Paris debut is part of a series of travelling events. The Milanese house showed in New York in 2022 and in Tokyo in February 2023. The show will take place on 27 September in the once-private residence of Karl Lagerfeld at 51 rue de l’Université. For its part, Maison Margiela — owned by OTB Group alongside Marni — has not staged a show during ready-to-wear since March 2021. Meanwhile, Casablanca is switching from the men’s calendar to the women’s one and Mugler, which pivoted to a see-now-buy-now model during the pandemic, is changing strategy by returning to the calendar.
Peter Do, who is also creative director of Helmut Lang, will show his first collection for the label during New York Fashion Week before showing his own brand in Paris for the first time. His namesake label debuted in September last year during NYFW and was off the schedule in February.
Among other highlights this Paris Fashion Week: expect Gabriela Hearst’s last show as creative director at Chloé, the first Rabanne show under the brand’s new name and Harris Reed’s second show for Nina Ricci. Ester Manas is bowing out of the schedule, as previously reported.
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