April was busy for Mumbai: there was the Dior pre-fall show, an ode to Indian artisans, that took place on the very first day of the month, then the opening of Nita Ambani Cultural Center that happened right after—and two weeks later, a massive homecoming for Sabyasachi Mukherjee. Not even six months after the brand’s New York store opening, Mukherjee brought the magic of Sabyasachi, the one that has captivated Bollywood stars and Indian socialites for more than two decades, and applied it to 25,000 square feet of retail real estate within the thunderous city of Mumbai.
The store is filled with porcelains, art pieces, and treasures collected by the designer.
Days before the opening, a party ensued, of course, where India’s most notable names, whether they be from stardom or familial lineage, donned their favorite garments by the designer. As one of the board members of the Savile Row association descended from the store’s entry stairs, two young local girls excitedly addressed the shopping bag in her hand. “What’s in it?” they inquired excitedly. “Every girl in India dreams of wearing a dress by Sabyasachi,” one of them told the board member.
And even if they don’t purchase a gown, just walking through the newly refurbished neo-classical building and experiencing the world of Sabyasachi in such an expansive way may be enough to satisfy.
On the second floor, jewelry awaits.
To start: the new flagship store does not feel like one. At least, upon initial entrance. Rather, it feels like a museum where 100 chandeliers, 275 carpets, 3,000 books, and 150 works of art created by the Sabyasachi Foundation, Mukherjee’s organization that strives to give indigenous artists and craftsmen recognition and a means of livelihood, are dispersed throughout three floors.
There are clothes, of course. Many opulent ones at that. On the first floor, regal white gowns await future brides who are not sparing an ounce of glamour on their special day. Take a journey up to the next floor and finds oneself in a jewelry box where strings of precious gems take forms in necklaces, earrings, and other accessories. The third level is where both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and made-to-measure garments sit in private salons. Surely, the New York store is a testament to how exciting retail stores can be, but the Mumbai location proves the power of playing in your home field.
The Mumbai location boasts over 25,000 square feet.
“In New York, nobody really knows who I am. The pressure wasn’t immense.” Mukherjee tells Town & Country from within the grand ballroom of the Taj Mahal Palace. “But in India, everyone knows who I am, and it was important for me to raise the bar because I think it’s important that one does so every five or six years to future-proof your business. ” The designer references his former store in Kala Ghoda, which did not boast nearly the same amount of space as the new store. “People were shocked when we announced that we were leaving the store. But, there is a time when to not rest on your past loves and move on.”
Fern Mallis, creator of New York Fashion Week, remembers coming across Mukherjee before the designer reached his present-day high status nearly twenty years ago. “He was one of the early designers who showed at LACMA India fashion week in the early 2000s. He showed all black, almost academic clothing and it took everyone breath of way,” she says. “He always said he wanted to be the Ralph Lauren of India, and he’s very much that in his own special way.”
Within the store, one may find work by the artisans supported by Sabyasachi’s foundation.
For those who call India home, the monumental opening and, ultimately, Mukherjee’s rise through the ranks resonates on a deeper level. “For me, as a woman who has worked in fashion for over 15 years, I find it very validating,” Bandana Tewari, a fashion editor from India and based in Indonesia who championed Mukherjee during his earliest days as a designer, tells T&C. “I’m not a big fan of India being defined by some bling-y image. That cultural narrative is a shortcut. You forget that this is the land of Vedic philosophy, extraordinary textiles, temple jewelry. I mean, a country where your language changes every 800 kilometers. Sabya gets that depth and brings it visually.”
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