(Image credit: Stan Tess/Alamy)
From Black Lamb to Row 34, the acclaimed Boston seafood chef and restaurateur recommends where travellers should go for the city’s best oysters.
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Boston is synonymous with seafood. Lobsters, clams and fish are hoisted from the water and served to diners within hours, and the Union Oyster House, which has served its namesake molluscs since 1826, is one of the oldest continuously operated restaurants in the country. These days, fresh oysters are shucked and served at many Boston restaurants, making it one of the best cities in the US to slurp the tasty bivalves.
Chef Michael Serpa knows a thing or two about oysters. As the owner of seafood restaurants Little Whale, Atlántico and Select Oyster Bar, Serpa’s background in seafood runs deep. He was the chef at the award-winning Neptune Oyster in Boston’s North End for years, and grew up in the kitchen among a family of Cuban chefs.
“The [oysters] we have here in New England are second to none… Boston loves oysters, of course, and Boston loves no oyster more than Island Creek Oysters,” Serpa said, referring to one of the most well-respected oyster farms in the US.
When he’s not dining at one of his own restaurants, Serpa loves popping into other seafood restaurants to show support. Here are five of his favourite places around Boston to eat oysters.
Row 34 might be best known for its raw bar menu, but Serpa recommends the fried items, too (Credit: Kim Foley MacKinnon)
1. Row 34
Row 34 is located right on the edge of the Seaport District and was one of the restaurants that took a chance on the then-burgeoning neighbourhood back in 2013. “The lofty industrial space has earned a reputation for its impressive craft beer programme, but their wine selections are always well selected and offer some off-the-radar wines, which are fun to explore,” said Serpa. “[The] oysters are always well-shucked and I like their fried offerings to pair with a huge platter of chilled raw bar items.”
The expansive restaurant is in the former Boston Wharf Company textile warehouse, which was built in 1908, and its high ceiling, brick walls, metal beams and other architectural elements remind patrons of its history. Its hard-to-resist raw bar menu and is piled with oysters, lobsters and clams, available raw or cooked. Yet, Serpa recommended the fried items here, too. The fried oyster slider with chilli-lime aioli, which is just $5, pairs perfectly with one of the dozens of craft beers on the menu. For fans of smoked and cured fish, Row 34 has a nice selection including salmon gravlax and bluefish, whitefish or salmon paté.
Website: https://www.row34.com/
Address: 383 Congress St., Seaport District, Boston
Telephone: +1 617-553-5900
Instagram: @row34
Servers at Banks can name where all of the restaurant’s seafood comes from (Credit: Kim Foley MacKinnon)
1. The Banks Fish House
“[Banks] is a great addition to Back Bay,” said Serpa. “The space is large with multiple floors, but the lower bar area is cosy and a good spot for oysters and a selection from their extensive wine list. Oysters, fried clams and Champagne are a great way to start a meal there. And it’s super convenient to hotels, the Boston Common, Back Bay Station and all that Back Bay has to offer.”
As part of the Himmel group, which also owns the legendary Boston steakhouse Grill 23 & Bar, (located less than a block from Banks), as well as Bistro du Midi (next to the Boston Public Garden – the first public botanical garden in the US), diners will get the same Himmel guarantee of fresh products. Servers can name the purveyors of seafood, meats and produce at all of the popular restaurants with ease. At Banks, in addition to its raw oysters, you can also enjoy a selection of crudos and ceviches, a chilled half lobster tail or caviar. The restaurant’s size lends itself to large parties and celebrations, but there are also cosy corners to tuck away in. Wherever you sit, though, there is a certain glamour to the restaurant that makes it feels special.
Website: https://thebanksboston.com/
Address: 406 Stuart St., Back Bay, Boston, MA 02116
Telephone: +1 617-399-0015
Instagram: @thebanksboston
Dovetail’s oyster bar is located in a historic naval building (Credit: Kim Foley MacKinnon)
3. Dovetail
Serpa called Dovetail in the Charlestown Navy Yard “a hidden gem”, and while it’s a bit removed from downtown Boston, it’s still close to lots of Boston attractions. The oyster bar is tucked into a historic naval building near the USS Constitution, the Freedom Trail and Bunker Hill Monument. Serpa said, “It’s one of my regular rotation spots. It’s the sister restaurant to Brewer’s Fork down the street and makes the perfect stop for anyone on a historic tourist crawl. Their courtyard patio is super chill and a perfect place for a platter of oysters and a bottle of rosé. The kitchen is excellent and I always start with their house-made focaccia, the ‘Frenchy’ salad and any of their crudo offerings.”
Inside the restaurant, there is a large bar area with a few high-top tables and a separate dining room with views into the kitchen. Lots of exposed brick walls, plants and twinkling lights make the space feel warm and inviting. There are plenty of small plates on offer, from roasted oysters with butter and bacon for those who prefer cooked to raw, steamed Maine mussels and the aforementioned Frenchy salad (comprised of local mixed lettuces, French breakfast radishes and a shallot-sherry-tarragon vinaigrette). Dovetail also has an adjacent shop where you can pick up all sorts of provisions, from wines to condiments, or just grab soups and sandwiches to go.
Website: https://dovetailcharlestown.com/
Address: 1 6th Street, Charlestown
Telephone: +1 617-337-5070
Instagram: @dovetailcharlestown
Puritan offers a caviar cone and plenty of oysters (Credit: Kim Foley MacKinnon)
4. Puritan Oyster Bar
“This spot is relatively new and comes from chef Will Gilson,” said Serpa. “The beautiful little space is the perfect companion to [Gilson’s] restaurant Puritan & Co next door. Oysters are great, of course, but also the small plates are really well done and great to pair with the oysters. Nice spot for date night.”
While Puritan & Co’s menu features “modern American cuisine”, with dishes such as a cast iron-seared ribeye and a phyllo-wrapped cod, the adjacent oyster bar, which you can access through the restaurant, is naturally more focused on seafood. Oysters come raw or dressed, and adventurous eaters can put themselves in the chef’s hands for his selection of $1 oysters Sunday through Thursday until 18:00. The caviar cone, with egg salad and sour cream, is not to be missed, as is the decadent butter lobster toast. The cocktail menu is creative, and for those who want to go all in with oysters, try the Madrina del Mar, made with oyster vodka from a nearby Rhode Island company, salted grapefruit and elderflower.
Website: www.puritancambridge.com/oysterbar
Address: 1166 Cambridge Street, Cambridge
Telephone: +1 617-615-6195
Instagram: @puritanco
Black Lamb is a locals-only kind of place that offers $2 oysters on summer Mondays (Credit: Kim Foley MacKinnon)
5. Black Lamb
“The South End is one of Boston’s prettiest neighbourhoods and more of an eclectic neighbourhood for anyone visiting from out of town, versus the more well-known tourist spots,” said Serpa. “Black Lamb is right in the heart of the neighbourhood and a great place to pop in for lunch. The airy dining room overlooks Tremont Street. They always have a great line-up of local oysters and a very good burger.”
The vibe at Black Lamb, especially on a summer Monday when $2 oysters are on offer all day, is one of a locals-only hangout, with patrons at the bar talking to the bartenders like old friends and boisterous parties ordering dozens of oysters at a time. The 46-seat restaurant is bright and comfortable with enormous windows on two walls, great for both letting in lots of light in and people watching. The raw bar menu offers a rotating list of oysters, plus starters such as shrimp or striped bass ceviche, tuna poke and shrimp cocktail. After a plate of oysters, you can’t go wrong with the cheddar and scallion Parker House rolls, the plate of pickled vegetables and an “amped up” dirty martini made with olive oil and black pepper vodka.
Website: https://www.blacklambsouthend.com/
Address: 571 Tremont Street, South End, Boston
Telephone: +1 617-982-6330
Instagram: @blacklambbos
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